Following are several pieces of information to better understand the catamaran racing process and rules.
ALCA Standard Sailing Instructions – 2024
- Life Jackets must be worn at all times to be scored (DSQif not worn)
- The start / finish line is an obstruction and cannot be crossed unless staring or finishing. (By-Laws) (DSQ if not Corrected)
- Must start within 5 minutes of start signal to be scored.
- Time Limits:
- 60 minutes Race Time (firt boat to finish)
- 20 minutes initial weather Mark (First boat to round)
- If no boats have passed the initial weather Mark Time Limit, the race will be abandoned.
- One-Turn Penalty (360)
- All Marks left to Port, Except Gates
- The Barging Buoy is an extension of the Committee Boat. (By-Laws)
- One start per race. Portsmouth A and B will start together.
- Protest – The committee must be notified immediately after a race if you intend to file a formal protest. A written must then be submitted to the Race Chair at the designated meeting place. A three-person committee shall be formed as needed for filed protests. (By-Laws)
- Protest time limit 1 hour (To Race Chair after racing)
- Governed by the rules as defined in The Racing Rules of Sailing (US Sailing).
- Committee Boat can DSQ boats without hearing (A5.1)
- Crossing finish line when not finishing and not correcting (Unwinding)
- Sailing wrong course.
ALCA Race Courses
Sailing Signals & Marks
Sailing Definitions & Right of Way Rules
Pre-Sailing Safety Checklist
Below is a very good Safety checklist put together by Dave Stiemsma to go through before you consider hitting the water. This is of course not all inclusive…
If you have ANY questions or are in search of parts please reach out!
Let’s start with SAFETY (it’s no accident)
Mast: If you leave your boat rigged with the mast up this may be the only chance you have to inspect the standing rigging for the season.
Check that the mast is straight, sight down the length of the mast with the groove up and you can pull the halyard tight to give you a nice line of sight. Be sure the mast is sealed, any loose rivets can create a leak. You might be able to hear the water rush when the mast is lifted from level. Inspect the top pulley, it should be free to turn. Comp tip mast head can easily be damaged and not allow the halyard crimp to pass. Also take a look at the hook/fork on top to be sure it’s not bent. Clean the sail track of debris by running a short piece of line with a knot in it, slide it end to end.
Cables: Most cables break at or in between the crimps or swage. Look for an unnatural twist or bulge in the strands of the braid. Be sure the clevis at the top is assembled correctly and is tight. The screw should be locked with a wire or at least taped to prevent it coming loose. Don’t forget the bridle, bow tangs and hull anchor points, all should be tight.
Trapeze: Inspect the line for wear, replace often with a good quality line. Check the plastic stoppers as they are known to break. No worse feeling watching your boat sail away without you.
Mast Base: The rounded end should be smooth and free of burrs, check the righting pin and hardware. Be sure to use a good teflon chip and that it stays centered under the mast. In the event you lose your chip you can use a Gatoraid cap or 1/2 of a wiffle golf ball.
Righting Line: Be sure it’s long enough to do the job, it needs to be 14 foot or so, tied to the dolphin stryker and tossed up and over the hull. Use a diameter line that you can easily grip. If you have the elastic type that goes all the way around the boat be sure it is free of the shrouds.
Personal Gear: Don’t forget to check your wetsuit, boots, gloves and life jacket for proper fit and function.
Trailers: Be sure to check tire pressure (including spare), lights chains and wheel hubs (grease if need be) check your boat and mast is secured before putting on any miles and follow the 1,10,100 rule and check after 1 mile, 10 miles and 100 miles.
More to come on tuning before Tuesday but if you have individual questions feel free to ask.
See you on the water,
Dave Stiemsma